House type · 1930s house

Renovating a 1930s house in Amsterdam and Amstelveen

1930s houses are loved for their bay windows, stained glass and solid construction. At the same time they are often cramped, poorly insulated and technically dated. We design renovations that add space, light and comfort while keeping the character of the home.

  • Layout, extension or attic that respects the original design
  • Insulation and ventilation that suit a pre-war home
  • Foundation, joists and roof assessed before the renovation
Frequently requested work

What we often change in a 1930s house

Most questions are about more space downstairs, a usable attic and a warmer home.

01 / Layout

Connecting kitchen and living room

The connected front and back rooms and the small rear kitchen often make way for an open-plan kitchen. Whether a wall is load-bearing determines which structure is needed.

02 / Extension

Rear extension

An extension across the width of the home adds space and light. The connection to the existing facade and the foundation need the most attention.

03 / Attic

Attic and dormer

A dormer or a better staircase makes the attic usable. Stricter rules often apply at the front than at the rear.

04 / Comfort

Insulating without damp problems

Insulating the cavity, floor and roof improves comfort. Without good ventilation, insulating an older home can lead to damp and mould.

05 / Facade

Renewing window frames and glazing

New window frames with insulating glass can follow the proportions and details of the facade, such as glazing bars and transom windows. Window frame drawings

06 / Bathroom

Bathroom upstairs

A new or larger bathroom calls for a check of the timber floor, the drainage and the ventilation.

Technical matters first

What we look at early

A pre-war home has often been altered a few times already. What is actually there determines what is possible.

Technical points to watch
  • Foundation: in Amsterdam, many pre-war homes stand on timber piles. For an extension, an extra storey or a heavier load, the foundation is part of the assessment.
  • Joists: timber floors can sag or be damaged. An opening or a new load calls for a check.
  • Roof: the condition of purlins, roof boarding and tiles determines whether a dormer is possible without major work.
  • Building physics: we design insulation, ventilation and vapour control together, to prevent damp.
  • Rules: check in the zoning plan whether your neighbourhood is a protected townscape or has extra rules for facades and dormers.

Load-bearing changes need a structural justification. Structural calculations

Keeping the character

What we keep and what we improve

The character of a 1930s house lies in the proportions of the facade, the bay window, the brickwork and details such as stained glass and timber staircases.

Design principles
  • Respecting facade proportions and brickwork
  • Keeping stained glass and original details where possible
  • Designing new parts to be recognisable but fitting
  • Gaining space and light inside without losing all original details

For each part we look at what is valuable and where an improvement really makes the home better. The result is a design that suits the house. Architecture and design

From survey to construction

The route in five steps

  1. Survey of the home

    We survey the home and, where needed, request the building file. Requesting building drawings

  2. Technical exploration

    Foundation, joists, roof and moisture are examined as far as the plan requires.

  3. Sketch design

    We work out a few options for the layout, extension or attic. Sketch design and building plan

  4. Development and permit

    The chosen option is developed into drawings and calculations and, where needed, a permit application.

  5. Preparing construction

    With clear drawings you can request comparable quotations. If you wish, we help you choose a contractor.

1930s house FAQ

Frequently asked questions about renovating a 1930s house

Can a 1930s house be insulated well?

Often yes, but it needs a tailored approach. Cavity walls, floors and roofs can be insulated, provided ventilation and moisture control are taken into account. For each home we look at which measures make technical sense.

Is an extension to a 1930s house permit-free?

Sometimes. Some rear extensions fall within the permit-free rules, but that depends on the dimensions, the position on the plot and the zoning plan. Have it assessed beforehand.

Do I need to have the foundation investigated?

For an extension, an extra storey or any other heavier load, insight into the foundation is needed. Whether further investigation is required depends on the intervention and on what is already known about the foundation.

Can I open up the connected front and back rooms?

Often yes. If the wall above the opening is load-bearing, a structural calculation is needed for the new beam or portal frame.

Where can I find the original drawings of my home?

In the building file, at the Amsterdam City Archives or at the municipality. Our page on requesting building drawings explains how that works.